Scotlands first and most popular long-distance trail created by a hill-walker from Glasgow and officially opened in October 1980. It’s 96 miles long, starting from Milngavie, north of Glasgow and ending in Fortwilliam, about 35% of those who start it complete the route.
The average itinerary is 5-7 days, but that sounded like a sprint and I wanted o enjoy my first thru-hike and the amazing scenery ahead. Thus my 9-day itinerary is below, a mix of wild camping and accomodation, every day except one under 20km, a not a day where I didn’t really enjoy it!
- Milngavie to Drymen (19km) – Drymen Camping
- Drymen to Balmaha (14km) – Birchwood Guesthouse
- Balmaha to Rowchoish (18km) – wild camping
- Rowchoish to Inverarnan (16km) – The Drovers Inn
- Inverarnan to Tyndrum (19km) – Tydrum By-The-Way
- Tydrum to Inveroran (15km) – wild camping
- Inveroran to Kingshouse (16km) – Bunkhouse @ Kingshouse Hotel
- Kingshouse – Kinlochleven (14km) – wild camping
- Kinlochleven to Fort William (24km) – Caledonia Express to London
I would set off on 11th May to avoid the heat, crowds and midgies. I booked all my travel and accomodation the previous October as at some points accomodation is sparse and I also definitely wanted to stay in the Drovers Inn as it had a reputation of being haunted!
And so in early May I was pulling into Glasgow Central. I travelled for just under 5 hours with Avanti West Coast from Euston for £26.00 one way. I then hot-footed it north across town to Glasgow Queen St station to catch the commuter train to Milngavie (pron. mul-guy) where the trail starts.
I booked into the Premier Inn (£44) and wandered around Milngavie and sought the start of the Way, in preparation for tomorrow. I also happened across a cheeky fish-and-chip shop at 33 Douglas Street which provided a delicious fish supper as I took an early one, excited for the days that lay ahead.
Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen (19km)
And so for a 10am start on the dot I made my way to the town centre to the mini-obelisk that marks the start of the trail. A few more hardy backpackers where also preparing for the start so I had to hang around a bit to make sure we didn’t set off at the same time as I prefer walking by myself. I then chose a moment when no-one was looking to selfie with the obelisk. All in all a bit of an awkward start.
The start is just like you’ve seen in the blogs and gives some official-dom to the start.
I get chatting to some mid-60s Milngavie residents at the big starting sign. They tell me to enjoy myself and they have major regrets of not doing it themselves when they were younger. I was to meet much hikers of the same age, and older, on the trail.
Following a small stream, Allander Water, the trail leads out of the town centre and through Mugdock Park and out into the wild! Well almost…you soon hit the B821, aka Ballachalairy Yett, so I turned left and walked on a precariously narrow not-really-there path quite a way until I met the trail again. If you look on Google maps streetview you can see a fellow hiker looking most perturbed!
The trail runs alongside the A81 for a bit and you go past the Glengoyne Distillery at one point. I love a whiskey but it comes a bit too early in the day for a tour and sampling. I make do with the Grahams 10 port I brought along for the trip.
The Way is well marked by the classic white thistle symbol which you’ll spot at various points along the route. I also used Fatmap as a guide and Strava to record my progress.
A nice break comes in the form the Beech Tree Inn, whether for a slap up meal and a pint or just to refill your water bottle. Also take time to appreciate the micro-horses!
Beech Tree was busy and had a half hour wait for a table so I hastened on to my campsite.
Arriving at 3pm, I seemed to be the first one that day so pitched my tent and inspected my feet! The kinectic tape had done the job and I only had one hotspot on my toe, result. I listened to podcasts about hauntings in my tent for a bit then went out to cook. Suddenly the campsite was full of hikers, already sitting in groups in the mess area, an American down the far end holding court. So I sat by myself and wolfed down a Summit to Eat meal. I turned in early. So far a successful first day!
Day 2: Drymen to Balmaha (14km)
Poking my head out in the morning at a reasonable 9am, I realised I was the last camper still at Drymen. I seemed to be completely at odds with the general flow of hikers. Maybe this was a good thing, I prefered solitude whilst plotting along. A cup fo tea and a sea of kenitic tape later, I set off for Balmaha.
I took a slight detour to Skoosh cafe in Drymen to have a full Scottish breakfast, which included the delicacy of a tattie scone: a flat bread like potato pancake is the best way to describe it. Smashed down with a cappuccino, I was not exactly roughing it but it set me up for the day!
The trail today leads over a few burns and up and over the mighty Conic Hill, a 361m high elevation which gives you an amazing view over Loch Lomond. It would take a bit of effort so I stocked up on water from the local burn (large stream) in preparation. Didn’t look that appealing but I had my Katadyn water filter which did the job, aka I wasn’t ill.
The path up Conic Was like a small stream and boy was it windy. The WHW doesn’t technically inlcude the summit but it’s an extra 50m round trip to take in the summit and the surround in all it’s glory. But that wind, jeez. It even blew my cap off!
Retieving my cap, I set off down the path to Balmaha and soon was in town arriving to the Birchwood guest house. I was hungry and was glad I had the foresight to book a table at the Oak Tree Inn as it was rammed and there’s not much else here. Fish and chips and a few JD and cokes. Spotting a theme here? I returned back to the guesthouse feeling not too bad at all.
Day 3: Balmaha to Rowchoish (18km)
All the potenial places for breakfast in Balmaha were fully booked so I decided to jog on along the trail and set up for brekky on the shores of Loch Lomond.
It’s here I met a couple from Canada who were en route to Inverarnan, a cool 35km away! Their packs were massive and they looked miserable. Cemeted the choice I made to maximise comfort on this trip. I met a few different but the same versions of these couples on the trail: long distances, heavy packs, miserable. It’s so worth having a comfortable bed, a light pack and reasonable distances. Especially as I was wild camping tonight, a first! I headed out of town, passing Tom Wier’s statue.
Tom Wier was a promoter of the Scottish outdoors. He was a writer, tv personality and weapons-grade outdoorsman who spread his passion for the Highlands far-and-wide.
The path around Loch Lomond was easy and interesting, ending around the area of Ben Lomond and the Clansman Pub. I ordered my usual of fish and chips and a pint of Guinness and took in Ben Lomond from the picnic bench. There is nothing greater than knowing a nice pint awaits after a section fo the hike.
About 2.5km after the Clansman pub the path splits in two (56.172003622965626, -4.655665743902748). The higher path is the easier one whilst the lower hugs the shoreline more but is more difficult. I decided on the lower one. The path got a little more challenging, becoming narrower with more inclines, declines and friendly rocks and tree routes proving excellent trip hazards. But easy enough and more enjoyable – it felt like proper hiking and I got to appreciate walking along the Loch.
Just before the paths splits there is a sign telling you the restrictions on wild camping end (see Google maps). From now on you can pitch up anywhere within reason and making sure to follow the wild camping code!
The low path lead me to Rowchoish bothy. Bothies are stone huts that hikers can stay in overnight, light a fire, keep warm and share tales before bedtime.
I decided to skip the bothy and head down to the shore of Loch Lomond, and this was one of the better decisions of the trip. I walked amoungst the trees for about 500m north before settling on a nice beach with a natural platform for my tent. I was glad I opted for the subtle green fly for my tent.
I cooked up a nice dinner, had a cuppa and a shot of port and just relaxed and enjoyed the view. This was my last day alone on the trail for tomorrow I would meet up with my friends at The Drovers Inn and complete the trail with them.
Day 4: Rowchoish to Inverarnan (16km)
Ah, Loch Lomond in the morning. Priceless. I set off back on the trail, leaving no trace. I popped my head into Rowchoish bothy as I went past and was met by an Aussie who said it was rammed last night. I continued on along the shoreline until the path met again with the high path which followed the Loch’s shore until I reached the Inversnaid Hotel. It welcomed hikers as long as you followed the rules which meant taking off packs, boots, waterproofs in a tiny room before going to the bar. As it was raining and most people had waterproofs, there was a number of people – including myself – wandering around the bar area in longjohns and socks! I was about 5km walk and I was in need of the standard pint but SHOCK HORROR – they didn’t serve pints until midday. An Irn-Bru barely hit the spot as I left Guinness-less and instead admired the Inversnaid falls before moving on.
At one point I came across a beach and just sat taking it all in. Such a beautiful landscape. Just off to the right you can see Island I Vow. Amazing. I was surprised the amount of hikers who walked past and just gave this place a cursory glance. It was one of the views of the walk and to sit and ruminate was a must and moments like these I feel are the purpose when embarking on such adventures.
Seeing Ardlui across the bay meant the end of Loch Lomond and the trail then followed the River Falloch until I caught sight of my destination from high up!
Walking through Beinglas campsite and ignoring the open bar (difficult) I doubled back on the A82 and made it to Drovers. Unfortunately I was given the Bridal Suite which is not one of the haunted rooms and then went down to await my friends and smashed the pint of Guinness that had been denied me at the Inversnaid hotel.
Day 5: Inverarnan to Tyndrum (19km)
As any group of friends on holiday, we ate our body-weight in food and drank more than we should. We met an old grizzy Scot in the bar who called us ‘gaydo’s’ when we said we’re from London. That was a common theme on the hike, locals taking the piss out of how shite London is. Most of the time, I solemnly agreed. Waking with a slight hangover, it was time to get back on the trail, so I said goodbye to the Drovers bear and we all headed off towards Tyndrum.
It was interesting going up to Tyndrum, the trail snaking back and forth under the A82 and River Falloch. We stopped for coffee in what can only be an absolutely ancient forest and soon arrived in our campsite, Tyndrum-By-The-Way. DS is used to the army life and used a tarp throughout. His favourite motto was ‘your skin is waterproof’ and any wearing of a waterproof garment meant you were dubbed Gary Gortex for a short time. I am not so hardly and was loving my tent!
Day 6: Tyndrum to Inveroran (15km)
Heading out of town, BS’s feet were starting to hurt and he was suffering from super ultra-pronation. He soldiered on, in pain but alas he had to bow out at the Bridge of Orchy and take the train back to Glasgow. Fair play, he was devastated and so were we, as he was our designated leader. We said farewell and marched on.
On the trail we met Paul, a Scot who was walking up to Loch Rannoch then canoeing all the way to Dundee. A mammoth task that would take him a few months. He walked with us for the day and despite his pack being double mine he kept up. We had a few beers at the Bridge of Orchy and then went onto the Inveroran Hotel. We were super starving and the bar said the chef was not cooking again for hours. Up stepped Paul and using some fellow countryman angle secured us 5 beef hotpots! Absolute legend!
We set up wild camp next to an old gatehouse. The midges came out to play and we all sat there swatting them off, swapping port, whiskey and stories. We’d lost a good chap but gained a good one too.
Day 7: Inveroran to Kingshouse (16km)
We were up early, packed, fed and watered and back on the trail by 9am. We were going into Rannoch Moor, one of the last remaining wildernesses of Europe. Paul left us somehwere around Loch Ba and headed off East to find his fortune (and hopefully calm waters).
Leading us to Kinshouse was the mighty Buachaille Etive Mor, towering over the landscape, giving it very photogenic appeal.
A long down hill stretch and we met with civilisation that is the Kingshouse hotel. This is split between a very fancy hotel full of American tourists who arrive on big buses with a bunkhouse out the back for the hikers who arrive stnking of body odour. As they had made an error with our reservation, Kingshouse gave us a free bottle of champagne, which was completely empty about five minutes after we got it!
One very fancy dinner and a few (many) glasses of wine later I was laying in a bunkhouse bed, the room spinning and alas I awoke at 3am with the most horrendous hangover known to man. 4(!) paracetamol and a pint of water later I drifted off and woke up the next morning feeling horrendous still. Tip #34: Drink not to excess when you have to walk up something called The Devil’s Staircase the next day.
Day 8: Kingshouse to Lairigmor (19km)
When you have a hangover and every bit of topography has the prefix The Devil’s in it’s name, you know you’re in for a bad day. And so stood aloft The Devil’s Staircase nearly puking up on some poor American tourists, I vowed myself off the booze for at least a day.
With a rest and some water, we continued on into the wilderness. Our plan was to wild camp anywhere past the small town of Kinlochleven. Despite it’s remoteness, Kinlochleven hosts The National Ice Climbing centre equipped wiith artifical icewall should you fancy a bit of ice climbing and more importantly gas cannisters! We stocked up (a godsend!) and nipped into the Bothy Bar pub for a small fish and chips and a large Guinness before continuined on into the wilderness (again).
After an extra 4km’s outside of Kinlochleven we passed that derelict house you see in all the guidebooks, aka Tigh-na-sleubhaich. As no one else was around we thought it a golden opportunity to wildcamp. However upon inspection we discovered large signs prohibiting camping within the ruins and more to the point there was what looked like human faeces everywhere within the house. A private area no doubt for some caught short on the trail.
Wandering further along the old military road we came to an old sheep pen currently not in use. We pitched up for the night and I think the trail – or at least last nights merlot – caught up with me, and I slept for about 12 hours straight.
Day 9: Lairigmor to Fort William (19km)
The final day! We had to be in Fort William to catch the 19:50 Caledonian Sleeper back to London so our pace was very easy all to drink in the last of the landscape before returning to our urban homes.
We followed the old military road over hills and through forests until we finally caught sight of Fort William below.
The seemed to never end but finally we rolled into town and to the end of the trail. Or was it. Well, it used to be, but ending this majestic journey through the Scottish highlands on a roundabout on the A82 was a bit of a damp squib.
The new and improved ending takes you directly into the town centre, which I feel is equally a bit rubbish as your homeward straight is past Tesco Express, Boots and a JD Wetherspoons.
And that was it! 96 miles through some stunning landscapes, meeting all manner of people and eating more full Scottishes than is good for you. I was glad to take it slow and this gave me a chance to really appreciate the surroundings and be present in the moment whilst hiking along.
We cracked open the Cuban cigars, had a victory smoke then headed across to Crannog Seafood restaurant, smelling like old cod. The showers at Fort William station were not working so we jumped on the train practically giving off gamma radiation. It wasn’t long before the overnighter set off home, back to London, carrying a happy and contented quartet of gaydo’s.
